American Design: Greenwashing…With a Flag!

Starting today, Gilt.com is celebrating Independence Day (US) by featuring sample sales by a number of long-standing and up-and-coming American Designers.

Worn on The 4th of July

“July 4th beckons, and with it comes backyard barbecues, lazy afternoons in the sun and, of course, casual clothing. We can’t help you perfect your BBQ glaze, but we’re more than happy to help you with the latter. To celebrate Independence Day, this July 4th we’re offering a huge selection of styles by all the masters of American fashion, from the classic favorites like Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Vera Wang, Tommy Hilfiger, Vineyard Vines, Keds and Michael Kors to the groundbreaking new guard like Erin Fetherston, Proenza Schouler, Derek Lam and Kelly Wearstler. Think you’re a scholar of style? Take our quiz on American designers past and present and test your knowledge of the looks they made their own.”  (Take the quiz here.)

While I love – love - designers from across the pond (as well as above below the border), if you live in the US, there’s something to be said for buying American.

It’s not about US pride (the whole flag-wearing, Hummer-driving “American way” thing seems a bit forced to me).  It’s more about Earth pride, and intelligence pride, and knowing-what-it-takes-to-get-my-clothes pride. It’s about shopping locally, and supporting your own country’s designers, creators, inventors, manufacturers…all the men and women that work so hard and pay the same tax dollars we do.

(Also, I’d be a little cranky if my clothes have been to – were created in and flown from – countries I’ve never visited.  But I’m the jealous type.)

Here’s the rub: just because your clothing is designed by an US citizen doesn’t mean it was made by US citizens.  Which begs the question: which of these Gilt-featured designers actually manufacture their clothing in the US?

  • Vera Wang: Her collections go back and forth.  Some of her designs are made in the US, others are made in the US out of imported (typically Italian) fabric, and others are imported entirely. (Gilt’s got a mix of all three.)  Always check the tags, and try to balance the “US made” aspect with the type of material used – natural fabrics are almost always better – and any other eco-friendly or charitable practices.
  • DKNY Shoes: Imported imported imported, leather leather leather. Ameri-what?
  • Derek Lam: Most of his pieces are made in Italy, but a select few hail from the US. (Gilt has two: a blouse and a dress.)  His aesthetic is gorgeous, though, so if you’re coveting one of his designs, try to focus on natural fabrics, local boutiques and the occasional US-manufactured tagline.
  • Kelly Wearstler for Sferra: Organic design doesn’t mean organic materials; however, most of Gilt’s Sferra collection is made of 100% cotton or linen. The problem?  Every bit of it is imported.
  • Tommy Hilfiger: More imported clothing from an “all-American” designer.  But who cares: Hilfiger’s designs are totally uninspired anyway.  So much for red, white and blue being your “signature colors,” Tommy.
  • Keds: Keds!  From my childhood!  Keds!  All cute and canvas and comfy and…imported. Man, that sucks.
  • Vineyard Vines: New England preppy meets a 100% cotton shell meets a dubious “imported” label. I’m sensing a trend here.  (This list is becoming a little sad.)
  • Proenza Schouler: Didn’t someone tell Gilt that every single pair of these sunglasses is made in France?  They’re crazy gorgeous – I love the square acetate frames – but last time I checked, France was waaaaaaay over there.  (I know, because I haven’t been there.  Sad for me.)
  • Erin Fetherston: First of all, new favorite designer ever. This stuff is gorgeous!  And the first click shows…US MADE! (I’m doing a little dance in my chair right now.)  Okay, third click is giving me an “imported” label, but still.  At least some of this stuff is manufactured on American soil.


Oooohmygod.

  • Calvin Klein and Michael Kors: I’ll give you one guess, and a clue: it starts with an “I”.  (Imported?  Italy?  Right on both counts.) This makes me extra sad, because I really love my Calvin Klein Jeans and Michael Kors shoes.
  • Property Of… (Men): I love the waxed cotton, hate the patterns on the canvas (what is this, a men’s diaper bag?), love the no-frills look, and hate the imported tagline.
  • Adidas SLVR (Men): I’m surprised I like this collection.  Adidas managed to pull of a casual, yet not skater-ish vibe with these straight-cut shorts and pants, as well as henleys and jackets.  Sadly, it’s all imported, but much of it is made of eco-friendly fabrics, including organic cotton blends.

As you can see, most of these brands use the same tactic that greenwashers do: tell us their product is one thing, while using practices that make it another.  (Think back to Tommy Hilfiger’s campaigns: red, white and blue, classic American style.  It was practically thrown at us all through the nineties – you couldn’t help but know it was an “American” brand.)

The lesson is this: just because a designer hails from the United States doesn’t mean their clothes do, and just because someone says they use natural fabrics doesn’t mean they’re not filled with chemicals.  (Bamboo, anyone?)  Keep that in mind as you shop this weekend…or any other.  (With that in mind: please, stop going to Walmart.)

In addition to what your clothing is made of, do you think about where it was manufactured, or what country the company hails from?

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20 Responses to “American Design: Greenwashing…With a Flag!”

  1. Birdie says:

    That’s Deco Modiste’s whole thing – manufacture and then sell within your local sphere (which means we’re all PacNW built and marketed- even better!). I know Lekkerlife does the same.

    It’s so hard to find “made in the US”-anything; though, I recently found out that my CC California purchases on RueLaLa were US made!
    Birdie´s last [type] ..Featured in the Seattle Weekly

    • I’d rather be shopping Lekkerlife or Deco Modiste than any of the above brands (okay, other than Erin’s – god her stuff is gorgeous). We’re lucky to live in Seattle, and have so many local options!

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  7. [...] Awakened Aesthetic: On Independence Day, we’re told to “buy American.” This eco girl is telling you to think twice. [...]

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  10. liz says:

    I go back and forth on this issue. On one hand, I love Brooklyn based designers who manufacture here, and I am all for supporting them. At the same time, I love Japanese brands, and Australian brands, and Thai brands, and the list goes on and on. But this is besides the point..

    I think you hit the nail on the head, Gilt’s sale is all about supporting designers who identify as American, rather then designers whose fashions hail from America. It would have been nice to see smaller, up and coming designers, whose fashions are made in the US, included in the group.

  11. [...] Awakened Aesthetic: On Independence Day, we’re told to “buy American.” This eco girl is telling you to think twice. [...]

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  18. Eréndira says:

    What if the clothes are imported but thrifted? It is bad too?

  19. [...] Awakened Aesthetic: On Independence Day, we’re told to “buy American.” This eco girl is telling you to think twice. [...]

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